Sailing From Beaufort To Charleston
story by DAVID KUCZKIR photos by SHELLEY KUCZKIR
By boat, Charleston is a 60-mile fun-filled, aesthetically pleasing jaunt from Beaufort. Boating between these two charming seacoast cities deserves a spot on anyone’s bucket list.
Regardless of your starting port, the ride goes through the heart of the ACE Basin, a prolific and expansive wildlife refuge (350,000 acres of natural area) teeming with pristine sea islands and rare and endangered wildlife like peregrine falcons (the fastest animal on the planet), American oystercatchers (exquisite foragers) and loggerhead sea turtles (who are on pace to have a banner year in terms of nesting sites). Not to mention plenty of bottlenose dolphins. And more manatees than ever before!
Unless your boat’s powered by oars, the ride between these two Antebellum cities is a cinch. Using your onboard Global Positioning Satellite just follow the Magenta line, the Intracoastal Waterway, north from green ICW Marker 239 (The Downtown Marina of Beaufort) to green ICW Marker 1 (the Charleston Harbor). Electronics fail so have handy a paper chart, the National Oceanic Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) Chart 11518 Casino Creek to Beaufort River.
Don’t shed your life vest just yet. Because to rush through this wondrous part of the Lowcountry is tantamount to fast-forwarding through your all-time favorite movie. Approximately twenty miles north of Beaufort, where the land, sea and the Coosaw River converge (an area that will look and feel like the middle of nowhere), is the ACE Basin’s crème de la crème: the St. Helena Sound estuary. It is one of the most prolific estuaries on the Atlantic. It is vigorously protected and studied by biologists from the South Carolina Department of Natural Resources due to the higher than normal salinity levels found in estuary’s catacomb of rivers and creeks. These salty waterways, called sea fingers, provide a breeding ground for a bonanza of interesting wildlife.
Remember the 3,500-pound, 16-foot white shark, Mary Lee? Biologists believe great whites, along with other aggressive shark types, birth their pups in these nutrient-rich waterways.
The main body of land in the estuary is Otter Island, one of the most active sea turtle nesting sites in the Lowcountry. Open to the public year round, this undeveloped 5,000-acre oasis boasts miles of pristine beachfront. If you ever wondered what it feels like to gallivant around on your own private island for a day Otter’s your perfect opportunity. Camping is allowed by permit from November 1 to March 31.
Across from Otter is Morgan Island, a.k.a. Monkey Island. This sea island is more known for its colony of free-roaming Indian-origin rhesus monkeys than its contribution to coastal research.
Understanding who owns the island and the monkeys, how many of the pink-faced animals exist, and why they’re even there is about as easy as grasping the in’s and out’s of international tax law. To that end, Morgan is off limits to the public. However, its systems of creeks and tributaries are fair game. Anchor in Morgan Creek and lunch. With a little patience, you may spot a few of the monkeys up in the trees spying on you.
Near green ICW Marker 157, South Edisto River, is the mouth of Alligator Creek. The one-mile creek cuts across to the other side of the river. Here’s the ideal spot to veer off the beaten path and immerse yourself in the resplendence of the ACE Basin. As its name implies, one may see a dozen or so enormous slithery reptiles sunning themselves on the creek’s pluff mud banks. You’ll see dolphins, if it’s low tide, and you’re lucky, you may spot a school strand feeding, a behavior where dolphins corral baitfish up onto the banks to feed. Bobcats and foxes are also common in these parts. As are unique birds like the colorful and melodic Painted Bunting, the stilted long-necked wood stork and other wading birds.
Equidistant between the cities are a pair of prestigious golfing resorts, Kiawah and Seabrook. The full-service Bohicket Marina & Market, located on Bohicket Creek on Seabrook Island is a great spot to refuel, stretch your legs and lunch. Within walking distance of the marina are four restaurants and an ice cream shop. Transient slips are available.
Near the convergence of the North Edisto and Wadmalaw rivers is the northern fringe of Charleston County. Your last leg. Here the ICW narrows and life begins to show in the form of waterfront homes and boat traffic. This stretch of the ICW winds through Wadmalaw and Johns islands where you’ll be treated to waterway views of some of Charleston’s priciest real estate and swank yachts.
As you pass under the Wappoo Creek Bridge hand the helm over to your mate so you can enjoy a celebrity cocktail and marvel at the Holy City and its steepled cityscape. The moniker comes from a centuries-old building code that restricts a building’s height, which can’t be taller than the tallest church steeple. Further in you’ll be wowed by views of Charleston’s Battery, Rainbow Row and two Civil War forts, Castle Pinckney and Fort Sumter.
Like restaurants, there is no shortage of marinas in Charleston. However, if you need both a slip and lodging your choices dwindle. Directly across the harbor, in the seaside town of Mount Pleasant, is the Charleston Harbor Resort and Marina. You can’t miss it, just look for the large building with the bright red tin roof. The resort’s full-service marina offers overnight slips. In addition, the property boasts two hotels, five restaurants, temperature-controlled pools, a 33-seat movie theatre, a spa, and a mini-mariners morning camp. Babysitters!
Any time of year Charleston is abuzz with things to do. But September is kind of a special month because the city is host to three week-long events: Restaurant Week, Beer Week and Water Week.
Foodies from all over the globe flock to this anticipated event as restauranteurs in the tri-county area showcase their exceptional fare by offering “prix fixe” lunch and dinner menus. There is no better way to affordably enjoy the city’s most celebrated restaurants. This 12-day event runs September 4th to the 15th.
Charleston’s brewery scene has grown exponentially in recent years. To date, Charleston has 30 breweries, all unique with funky vibes and an eclectic mix of delicious craft beer worthy enough to impress any cognoscente. The breweries serve up good eats too, whether it’s prepared in house or from a rotating food truck. Charleston Beer Week runs from September 7th through the 14th.
The last event may have sparked some emotions in Beaufortonians. No worries. Beaufort’s Water Festival is still king. Nevertheless, Charleston’s Water Week runs from September 7th through the 15th. Some noteworthy goings-on include the Malibu Open Waterski Festival, Kayak Paddle, and Lowcountry Boil, a BBQ and Blues concert, triathlon, and the Chucktown Showdown, a paddle vessel race in the Charleston Harbor.
For history buffs, Charleston is like the Cooperstown of Americana. Spend the day visiting Fort Sumter and see the exact spot where a Confederate soldier fired the shot that ignited the Civil War.
Though an all-day pass is the norm, one day just isn’t enough to see everything there is to see at Patriots Point Naval and Maritime Museum. Just a short walk from the Charleston Harbor Resort and Marina, the in-water museum offers tours of three World War II era warships, an aircraft carrier, destroyer, and submarine. With a minimum party of ten you can even camp on the aircraft carrier. Other notable displays are the Medal of Honor Museum and the Vietnam Experience Exhibit.
For waterfront dining head over to Shem Creek. Tie up and kick back at one of the eight celebrated restaurants for some killer waterfront views and sumptuous Lowcountry fare. Situated on the ocean side of the harbor, this shrimp and fish, boat lined tidal creek is a haven for dolphins and manatees.
In my opinion, the best way to truly experience the Lowcountry is by way of water. Depending on your agenda, and the speed of your boat, the trip up the “ditch” to Charleston can last anywhere from two hours to five or six hours. Even if the duration runs toward the latter end of that timeframe, I promise time will fly because you’ll be having one of the most enjoyable and memorable experiences of a lifetime. And the best part is you get to do it all over again on the boat ride home.
