Page 53 - September 2019
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B      y boat, Charleston is a 60-mile

            fun-filled, aesthetically pleasing
            jaunt from Beaufort. Boating
            between these two charming
     seacoast cities deserves a spot on anyone’s
     bucket list.
          Regardless of your starting port, the ride
     goes through the heart of the ACE Basin,
     a prolific and expansive wildlife refuge
     (350,000 acres of natural area) teeming
     with pristine sea islands and rare and
     endangered wildlife like peregrine falcons
     (the fastest animal on the planet), American
     oystercatchers (exquisite foragers) and
     loggerhead sea turtles (who are on pace
     to have a banner year in terms of nesting
     sites). Not to mention plenty of bottlenose
     dolphins. And more manatees than ever
     before!                               Department of Natural Resources due to        The main body of land in the estuary
          Unless your boat’s powered by oars, the   the higher than normal salinity levels found   is Otter Island, one of the most active sea
     ride between these two Antebellum cities   in estuary’s catacomb of rivers and creeks.   turtle nesting sites in the Lowcountry. Open
     is a cinch. Using your onboard Global   These salty waterways, called sea fingers,   to the public year round, this undeveloped
     Positioning Satellite just follow the Magenta   provide a breeding ground for a bonanza of  5,000-acre oasis boasts miles of pristine
     line, the Intracoastal Waterway, north from   interesting wildlife.          beachfront. If you ever wondered what it
     green ICW Marker 239 (The Downtown                                           feels like to gallivant around on your own
     Marina of Beaufort) to green ICW Marker                                      private island for a day Otter’s your perfect
     1 (the Charleston Harbor). Electronics fail                                  opportunity. Camping is allowed by permit
     so have handy a paper chart, the National                                    from November 1 to March 31.
     Oceanic Atmospheric Administration                                                Across from Otter is Morgan Island,
     (NOAA) Chart 11518 Casino Creek to                                           a.k.a. Monkey Island. This sea island is more
     Beaufort River.                                                              known for its colony of free-roaming Indian-
          Don’t shed your life vest just yet.                                     origin rhesus monkeys than its contribution to
     Because to rush through this wondrous part                                   coastal research.
     of the Lowcountry is tantamount to fast-                                          Understanding who owns the island and
     forwarding through your all-time favorite                                    the monkeys, how many of the pink-faced
     movie. Approximately twenty miles north                                      animals exist, and why they’re even there
     of Beaufort, where the land, sea and the                                     is about as easy as grasping the in’s and
     Coosaw River converge (an area that will                   photo courtesy of Ocearch  out’s of international tax law. To that end,
     look and feel like the middle of nowhere),                                   Morgan is off limits to the public. However,
     is the ACE Basin’s crème de la crème:        Remember the 3,500-pound, 16-foot   its systems of creeks and tributaries are fair
     the St. Helena Sound estuary. It is one of   white shark, Mary Lee? Biologists believe   game. Anchor in Morgan Creek and lunch.
     the most prolific estuaries on the Atlantic.   great whites, along with other aggressive   With a little patience, you may spot a few of
     It is vigorously protected and studied   shark types, birth their pups in these nutrient-  the monkeys up in the trees spying on you.
     by biologists from the South Carolina   rich waterways.                           Near green ICW Marker 157, South
                                                                                  Edisto River, is the mouth of Alligator Creek.
                                                                                  The one-mile creek cuts across to the other
                                                                                  side of the river. Here’s the ideal spot to veer
                                                                                  off the beaten path and immerse yourself
                                                                                  in the resplendence of the ACE Basin. As
                                                                                  its name implies, one may see a dozen
                                                                                  or so enormous slithery reptiles sunning
                                                                                  themselves on the creek’s pluff mud banks.
                                                                                  You’ll see dolphins, if it’s low tide, and you’re
                                                                                  lucky, you may spot a school strand feeding,
                                                                                  a behavior where dolphins corral baitfish
                                                                                  up onto the banks to feed. Bobcats and
                                                                                  foxes are also common in these parts. As are
                                                                                  unique birds like the colorful and melodic
                                                                                  Painted Bunting, the stilted long-necked
                                                                                  wood stork and other wading birds.  
                                                                                       Equidistant between the cities are a pair
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